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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.